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Croatia Boat Trip Part 3/5

29/7/2015

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Lumbarda - Eastern Hvar - Makarska - Eastern Brac
After the surreal Alpine dream in the heart of the Mediterranean we experienced in the islands and islets in front of Korcula and Lumbarda we continued our journey towards the gentle shores of eastern Hvar and Brac Islands! The first part of the navigation was made through the Pejlesac Channel, between Peljesac peninsula and Korcula Island. The Peninsula is a mountainous finger of land which stretches for some 90km from Lovište in the west to the mainland in the east. It’s an exceptionally beautiful place, with tiny villages and sheltered coves rimmed by beaches, and although it’s an increasingly popular holiday area, development remains low-key.

The high peaks of Peljesac protect Korcula and its southeastern coast from rough northerly winds. The dry terrain is covered with macchia in the north and dotted woth vineyards, olive orchards and fruit trees in the south. This place retains a thriving agricultural business especially in winemaking. Dingac and Postup wines are appreciated throughout Croatia and Peljesac vineyards are open for visits. Do sample the farmed oysters and shellfish from Ston that attract gastronomes from far away.

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Peljesac Channel form Korcula - Hvar Island On The Back
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Peljesac Channel
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Korcula Island From Peljesac
After a relaxing early morning navigation through this quiet channel the view opens up again on Hvar and on Vis Island on the back! Hvar South Eatern Shores are just 4 Miles from the most western cape of Peljesac Peninsula. Hvar coast is covered in Pines and Mediterannean macchia, it is soft and welcoming compared to the south western area we visited the first day of navigation. There are several relaxing and bright blue sea bays as Smokvina, Smarska, Mrtinovik, Zidigova making it and ideal place to have a day boat tour!

At the eastern tip of Hvar lies the pretty little port of Sućuraj. From there, it’s only 5 km, a short hop by ferry across to Drvenik on the mainland. From the island the effect is rather dramatic – you’re looking up at a 4,000 ft wall across the small channel, which looms ever larger as you sail across! The lightouse located at the most eastern point of Hvar Island seems coming out form a fairytale!

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Mrtinovik Bay. During Summer a local fisherman prepares fresh fish
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Sucuraj Village
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Zidigova Bay
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Sucuraj Lighthouse
Generally most Dalmatia’s visitors head straight for the islands, as we did but the Makarska Riviera on the mainland coast, between Split and Dubrovnik, is home to some of the country’s loveliest stretches of beach. Running from Brela in the north and to Gradac in the south, the riviera is 38 miles long and centres on Makarska. We therefore decided to stop there on our way to Brac Island.
Makarska itself is built around a deep sheltered bay, and backed by the dramatic rocky heights of Mount Biokovo (circa 1700 meters), which acts as a buffer from the harsher inland climate. Biokovo’s sea-facing slopes are criss-crossed by well-marked trails, so besides swimming in the deep turquoise Adriatic, it’s possible to get in some hiking or mountain biking too.
Today, through summer Makarska’s main square is filled with open-air restaurants and cafés, while behind the church, in the shade, the daily open-air market sells fresh seasonal fruit and vegetables. Along the harbour, overlooked by a string of cafés and pizzeria, wooden excursion boats offer one-day trips to Jelsa on Hvar and Zlatni Rat beach in Bol on Brac.
But the main draw here are the beaches, backed by fragrant pinewoods overlooking the glistening turquoise sea.
Makarska has a dual soul indeed: on one side a typical Mediterranean touristic destination with bright blue sea, tranquil atmosphere and a good sports offer, while on the other side the nights are much more active with many bars, clubs, restaurants and live music!

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Makarska & Mount Biokovo
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A Very Calm Day For Enjoying The Boat Trip: Mount Biokovo on the left and Brac island straight
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View From Biokovo: Makarska, Brac Island and Hvar Island
After this coastal stop we just continued our planned trip towards eastern Brac Island shores where we visited some amazing deep bays like Rasotica close to Sumartin and the superb Luka very close to Povlja village. The first one is a very narrow bay where the anchorage is possible only with some ropes on the shores in order to leave some free room for other boats while the second one is made of several very deep fiords that will protect you from almost every wind! The Povlja fiords must be visited if you have the chance and do not forget to have a dinner in the dreamy atmosphere of Pipo restaurant, which can be reached only walking or by boat! No cars arrived there yet, and this is something very special!

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Rasotica Bay
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Pipo restaurant Organic Paprikas On The Beach
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Luke Bays Close To Povlja
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Sumartin Beach: View On Biokovo
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Pipo Restaurant
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Croatia Boat Trip 2/5

20/7/2015

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Our next journey was from Scedro to Korcula Island. Leaving Lovisce bay early in the morning is a magic and peaceful experience while the feeling when you turn Scedro point towards Korcula’s channel is exciting and stimulating! The view opens up on Pakleni Islands, Peljesac Peninsula, Vis Island and the open sea in Italy direction. After 7 Miles of tranquil navigation (but be careful because winds coming from almost every direction can be tricky here) we reached the shores of Korcula, the Croatian greenest Island!
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It is rich in vineyards, olive groves and small villages, and harboring a glorious old town, the island is the sixth-largest Adriatic island, stretching nearly 47km in length. The dense woods led the original Greek settlers to call the island Korkyra Melaina (Black Korčula).
Tradition is alive and kicking on Korčula, with age-old religious ceremonies, folk music and dances still being performed to an ever-growing influx of tourists. Oenophiles will adore sampling its wine. Arguably the best of all Croatian whites is produced from pošip grapes, which are only grown here and to a lesser extent on the Pelješac Peninsula.
Our first stop was on the breathtaking shores of Proizd Island, just 300 meters form the western point of Korcula! In 2007 the little island was chosen as the Beach of the Year by the Croatian Tourist Board, whereas the British newspaper the Daily Telegraph placed it among the five most beautiful Adriatic beaches. Proizd has a rocky and pebbly coast and its north side is absolutely breathtaking. This is where Bili Boci, a beach with white smooth rocks immersed in a turquoise sea, can be visited. Not to be missed for a refreshing stop!
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Proizd
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Proizd
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Proizd
From Proizd we decided to visit the very deep bay of Vela Luka located 4 miles towards east! It is a pretty port set in a lovely natural harbour. Vela Luka is surrounded by hills covered with olive trees, and the production and marketing of Korčula’s famous olive oil is vital to the local economy. Tourism and fishing are the other main employers. Just have a coffee on one the nice bars of the harbour!

On the way back to the west before our long navigation towards the town of Korcula we decided to stop again for a swim in Gradina Cove, located on the north west of Vela Luka Bay. This broad bay is protected from most winds and represents an ideal anchorage for small boats with a freeboard of up to 4 m. The cove is shallow, with a partially pebbly coast and a sandy bottom, which is why it is often chosen by families with children. We really suggest a stop here, you will find calm seas and exceptionally bright blue waters.

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Vela Luka
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A Nice Bay Between Prigradnica & Racisce
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The Way Out From Vela Luka Bay
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Gradina Bay
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Gradina Bay
The idea was now to face a violent south eastern wind (Jugo) following all the long Korcula’s northern coast. And it is what we did! The shore is indented with a series of nice welcoming bays and various low islets mainly populated by seabirds and garrigue. The vegetation of the Island is surprisingly rich and varied, the most widespread is the Holm oak (evergreen oak), also highlights Aleppo pine, coastal pine, black pine and cypress. This is one of the most densely wooded islands in the Adriatic. The panorama is much more soft and green compared to the southern shore of Hvar with its steep slopes and intimidating rocks. The distance from the Proizd Island to Korcula town is about 25 miles and it is worth to do this journey to admire an untouched coast with just a couple of villages (Prigradica and Racisce) until the beginning of the Peljeski Channel, where the island is only about 1/1,5 kilometers far away form the mainland. Entering this channel is very exciting but take care of the winds that can accelerate consistently here because of the Venturi effect. The town of Korcula suddenly appears far away and the arrival there is just amazing!
Korčula Town is a stunner. Ringed by imposing defenses, this coastal citadel is dripping in history, with marble streets rich in Renaissance and Gothic architecture. Its fascinating fishbone layout was cleverly designed for the comfort and safety of its inhabitants: western streets were built straight in order to open the city to the refreshing summer maestral (strong, steady westerly wind), while the eastern streets were curved to minimise the force of the winter bura (cold, northeasterly wind). The old town is full of restaurants and small galleries and during the summer months it literally does not sleep because its narrow streets are swarmed by visitors. The most beautiful examples of palaces and churches originate from the 15th and 16th century and were constructed in a gothic-renaissance style. St. Marko’s Cathedral is situated in the most prominent part of the town, at the top of the peninsula.  A big altar painting with representations of Korčula’s patron saints Marko, Jerolim and Bartul, mid-16th century work done by the famous Venetian painter Jacopo Tintoretto, stands out among the paintings inside the cathedral.  In the old town you can also visit the house of Marco Polo, who is believed to have been born in Korčula in 1254.

Visiting Dalmatia without stopping in Korcula is like going to Rome and forgetting to take a look at the Coliseum! We suggest to stop here at least for 1 night…and this is what we did in Luka Bay, just 10 minutes walking from the town centre.
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Luka Bay
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Korcula Old Town
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Korcula
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Korcula Old Town
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Korcula Old town
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Korcula
We dedicated the next day and night to the very cool area located just some miles south east from Luka bay. We had the chance to visit Lumbarda and the islands and islets located in this region. Lumbarda, covered in pines and olive trees, is a laid-back town set around a harbour on the southeastern end of the Island Of Korcula. The sandy soil is perfect for vineyards, and wine from the grk grape is Lumbarda’s most famous product. In the 16th century, aristocrats from Korčula built summerhouses here, and it remains a quieter retreat from the more urbanised Korčula Town. The town beaches are small but sandy.
Just in front of Lumbarda, we had the chance to explore Vrnik Island, Planjak Island and Badija Island. This tiny archipelago (it has many other islets) has something extraordinary: even if we were in hot summer days in a typical Mediterranean location we had the feeling, for some moments, that we were in an Alpine environment. The air was so pure and clear, the mainland and the islands have a rich vegetation (mainly pines), the seaside was almost motionless…well it seemed to be on a lake in Northern Italy or in Switzerland!
Stay tuned for the next part of our trip! We visited some hidden coves on Brac Island, and a very special place called Vrbovska on Hvar Island!

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Panjak Island & Peljesac Peninsula On The Back
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Lumbarda
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Panjak Island Monastery
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Vrnik Island
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Croatia Boat Trip (Part 1/5)

7/7/2015

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Summer is finally arrived and the weather in the Mediterranean area is very hot! We taught that the story of our boat trip through the astonishing Croatian islands and coast could refresh and inspire all our friends and readers. So be ready to immerge yourself in the most stunning coastline in Europe: a mix of limpid bays, hidden coves and beaches, vineyards, olive groves, and forests of cypress and pine. Remarkably well-preserved ancient towns hold vivid examples of Greek, Roman and especially Venetian architecture.

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1. From Milna (Brac Island) to Hvar (Hvar Island)

We started our amazing sea trip early in the morning from Milna village, located on the western part of the rocky Brac Island. The welcoming bays of Milna have always been a favourite and safe port for sailors sailing through the Middle Adriatic. Milna is still reputed as the most beautiful and the safest harbour of Brač Island. The two highly equipped marinas in Milna offer high quality service even to the most demanding sailors. Stone houses along the beautiful long coastline are small masterpieces of Dalmatian architecture. In the village there is also a beautiful Baroque church with a typically Dalmatian bell tower. The interior of the church hides impressive works of Venetian masters. For years, Milna was known for its shipbuilding and the renowned Dalmatian boat “bracera” was first made here.

The exit from Milna harbour is smooth and safe as the deep bay protects you from winds and waves from almost all directions. Heading towards Splitska Vrata (Split Gate) separating Brac and Solta Island we sailed along the coast of the tiny Island of Mrduja, well known because the inhabitants of Brač and those of Šolta are still wrangling over whom the island belongs. They are still playing a game using a rope secured to many boats in an attempt to pull it from one side of the Split Channel to the other.

After just some minutes we reached the impressive Split Gate from where, from west to east in southern direction, your gaze encounters open Adriatic Sea, Vis Island, Pakleni Islands, Hvar Island and Brac Island. The view is amazing and the feeling is much more thrilling than the peaceful and relaxing Milna Bay mood. From Split Gate we decided to sail straight south for 8 nautical miles until Point Pelegrin, the most western part of Hvar Island. This short open sea crossing gives you the chance to admire the greatness of Brac Island and of the coastal mountains on the background! Once you overstep the point you enter in eastern direction the channel that separates the Pakleni Islands and Hvar Islands. The Navigation here is tranquil and exciting as Hvar town is only 3.5 miles and it quickly approaches from the horizon.


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Milna Village
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Milna Harbour Aerial View
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Mrduja Island. Will The Island Belong To Brac or Solta People?
2. Hvar (Hvar Island) & Pakleni Islands

The arrival in Hvar can frighten in high season as the harbour is packed with hundreds of boats of different type, colour and dimension. But do not panic and try a way to get on the shore and explore the little town at least for a couple of hours! This one of the favourite destinations in Croatia and one of the most prominent and visited tourist centres in the whole Adriatic Sea. It is a place of a unique cultural and historical heritage! Admire the fortress, the Cathedral of St. Stephan, the Franciscan Monastery, the Town Loggia, the Hektorović Palace, the arsenal and the theatre. Hvar gained glory and power during Middle Ages being an important port within the Venetian naval empire. And you can feel Venice’s influence every step you do walking in the narrow streets and in the white stone piazza! After this cultural feast it is time to relax and explore the shores of the amazing Pakleni Islands in front of Hvar town!


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Hvar Aerial View With Pakleni Islands
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Hvar Arsenal
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Hvar Palace Hotel
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Hvar Piazza
This cluster of offshore islets is among the best the Adriatic has to offer! Here you will find small, secluded beaches, deserted coves and sun-drenched hills. A kind of mystic scenery nestled between the sea and the sky!
The closest island is Jerolim, directly opposite to Hvar town and named after a now-disappeared church. Jerolim is the favourite among naturists who generally stroll away from the main jetty and stretch out on one of the shady coves. The islet is rocky but there are pine trees and maquis for shade. Nearby is the other island of Marinkovac, which hosts Stipanska, another naturist beach also equipped with showers and a shop. Another idyllic cove on Marinkovac is Zdrilca, which has several pebble beaches.

The largest Pakleni Island is Sveti Klement, well known for the beautiful Palmizana bay. Here, azure waves caress a sandy cove surrounded by pine forests, heather fields and breezes scented by aromatic herbs. Palmizana has been a favourite getaway for Hvar islanders since the turn of the 20th century when a Professor Eugen Meneghello built a summer house there. Now it houses a small museum and a gallery. Nearby, Vlaka is a small fishing village reachable in an easy hour walk from Palmizana. The only way to reach these paradise spots is obviously by boat! We suggest you to deeply explore all the secret coves and the hidden natural beauties over but also under the sea. A night here will recharge your batteries!
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Pakleni Islands, Point Pelegrin. On The Back, Brac And Solta Islands And The Mountains Of The Coast
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Palmizana Bay
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View From Marinkovac In Vis Island Direction
3. Towards Scedro Island

The second day we decided to continue our navigation in Easter direction following the southern Hvar coastline that is mainly steep, rocky and covered with vineyards. They are built as terraced steps in a very tricky terrain and in the old days they were reachable only by a long trek up and over the passes. The view is breathtaking, the colors, the perfumes and the tastes of these wines are very special because of the fertile land caressed by the sun and the sea breeze! Have a look here to discover something about Croatian Wines! After overtaking the picturesque villages of Sveta Nedilja and Ivan Dolac we started approaching our final destination for the second sailing day! It is Scedro Island, separating the Southern Hvar Shore and the Northern Shore of Korcula Island.

Protected as a nature park, in its untouched beauty, with many hidden coves, it provides an intimate experience to every visitor and once you feel the charm of those quiet coves, sweet aromas of nature and glimmering sun on crystal clear water you would want to stay forever.
Since the Ancient times Šćedro coves have been known as good places for anchorage and safe harbors. Long time ago because of the somewhat more humid climate than that on the island of Hvar, wheat was cultivated on Šćedro. On the hill there is an old abandoned village called Nastane, which will take you back to history with its picturesque stone houses. A Dominican monastery was founded in the Bay of Mostir (1465), together with a hospice for sailors, and abandoned in the 18th century. Around 30 people live on the island in summer. We decided to anchor in Lovisce bay, just facing Hvar Island, because it is very well protected from all southern winds that were blowing that day. The bay is very deep and it is relaxing for sailors who want to have a break in one of the two restaurants that are preparing fresh local fish!


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Hvar Rocky Southern Shore
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Lovisce Bay On Scedro Island
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Hvar Vineyards
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A Peaceful Night In Scedro Island
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Scedro Island
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